Frequently Asked Questions
What is your shipping address?
Pinsonnault Racing
22 A Street - (for U.P.S./FedEx Shipments)
P.O. Box 79 - (for U.S.P.S. Shipments)
West Warren, MA 01092
Q: How long does cylinder plating take?
A: Cylinder repair usually takes 1-2 weeks depending on
workload and the amount of damage to the cylinder. Certain times of the year can take longer due to high volume of work coming through. If you are ordering a custom piston through us to have your cylinder re-plated, please allow extra time in case the piston is not in stock at the time of order.
Q: How long does it take to have my big bore kit completed?
A: Piston stock will have a lot to do with lead time for your Big Bore Kit, or Big Bore Stroker Kit. Wossner custom pistons are special ordered when we run low, and can take several weeks to replenish our stock. Please call or email to check availability of Wossner custom sizes if your preferred big bore kit includes one. If we have them in stock at the time of your inquiry, but then are out at the time of your payment, we will notify you, and give you an updated lead time.
Q: Do I need to remove my cylinder studs, power valves and dowel pins?
A: For cylinder re-plating, sleeving, boring, and general porting, remove studs, power valves, and dowel pins. An additional charge will be applied if we have to do this. When having a big bore kit installed remove studs and dowels, but power valves may be left in, which will be modified if necessary, and reassembled during big bore kit installation.
Q: How do I adjust my needle?
A: With the needle's blunt end facing up
(as it is installed in the carburetor), the top clip will be
#1, the clip below it #2, etc.
To richen your needle jetting, you would move the clip
down from top to bottom, which raises the needle in the carburetor slide. To lean the jetting, move the clip up, which lowers the needle in the carburetor slide.
Remember this phrase for your needle: (R)aise it to (R)ichen it, - (L)ower it to (L)ean it
Q:What kind of porting do you offer, and what power gains can I expect?
A: . Stage 1 - Low end, broad power band. For indoor MX, Supercross, Arenacross, Enduro, Trails.
Stage 2 - Strong midrange power band. For outdoor MX, aggressive play riding, hillclimb, dunes.
Stage 3 - Strong midrange to top end power, high rpm. For drag racing, road race, flat track, kart racing.
Q: What is the break in procedure on my new engine?
A: Start your engine and let it idle slowly until the cylinder(s) are hot to the touch. Stop the engine and let it cool
off. Do this 3-4 times. After this is done ride your engine under light
loads varying the rpm but do not go beyond ¾ throttle until you have
about 30-45 minutes on the engine.
Q: What octane fuel should I run?
A: Most of the time we suggest around 100 octane. Stock engines are fine with 93 octane pump gas, but modified engines and race engines run best around 100. Big Bore 2 strokes 380-500+cc's will run well with 105-108 octane. Smaller engines will have a loss of torque if the octane is too high. A fuel like VP's MR12 works great in a smaller engine, 85-200cc, even 250cc. It is a 93 octane fuel with anti detonation additives. Engines run the best
and make the most power with just high enough octane to
prevent detonation.
Q: When should I change my piston?
A: Measure the compression when the engine is rebuilt or fresh, and save that information. Then check the compression of the engine with
the same gauge once in a while. Once the compression drops about 10% it is time to
change the piston. If your engine sucked in dirt, is constantly revved at a high rpm, or has a lot of hours, it will usually need a piston kit. Also, a lot of times the crank should be checked, along with seals and bearings. From our experience, if you bought a bike used from a non racer, it probably needs a top end and maybe even a bottom end rebuild, if you plan on keeping this bike a while. Many, many people will sell a bike/ATV because it needs a rebuild and they don't want to spend the money. It's a shame, but it happens often.